Truly Victorian

Dale · Posted: Wed Nov 04, 2009 12:45 pm Post subject: Shoulder question

Heather,
I had posted this question under the "show and tell" area, then realized it should be posted here. I got the Eaton jacket pattern so quickly I was able to complete an outfit to wear to the Molly Brown mansion in Denver last Saturday, and went on the tour and had tea! Great fun as lots of ladies were in period clothing.

Anyway, the outfit is a silk/wool blend and the shoulder "fell" during wearing. I lined it with taffeta thinking that would give it enough umph! but it didn't. Any suggestions? Thanks!!
http://trulyvictorian.com/gallery2/main.php?g2_itemId=3826

the_costumer · Posted: Wed Nov 04, 2009 1:12 pm Post subject:

taffeta isn't crisp enough. When I want sleeves to stay up I usually flatmount the sleeve to some netting. It doesn't need to be the full length of the sleeve, just around the part that needs to stand up.

On the top sleeve, depending on the look you're going for, I would maybe just use duck or poplin, or something like that and just put it from the guideline (on the drawing) down.
On The middle sleleves I would do the whole sleeve in netting, just to make sure that it keeps the 3d effect while it's worn, and I'd probably use a stiff netting.
On the bottom sleeve, like yours, you I would put some netting and shape it along the line where midway down the sleeve, and of course, not stitch it there... it'll show thru!!

Heather · Posted: Wed Nov 04, 2009 2:12 pm Post subject:

I agree with The Costumer. Adding some netting to the sleeve head should do the trick. Flatline it to the fashion fabric so that it will be between the lining and fabric. Also, trim the seam allowance of the netting to about 1/4", otherwise the netting edges can poke you in the pit, very annoying.

On a side note, looking at the pics.... It almost looks like the sleeves may be rotated with the wrists too far forwards. The right hand side more than the left, though it may just be a trick of how the jacket is sitting on the dress form. This is putting the gathered sleeve head a little farther to the back. And it can also cause a diagonal fold to appear along the upper arm of the wearer. Ideally, the front of the elbow on on the sleeve should be pretty much straight below the front corner of the armpit, with the back of the elbow forwards of the back corner of the armpit. If that makes any sense. In the photo of the right side, you can clearly see the front elbow angling a ways forward of the armpit.

I am not sure if this is also helping to deflate the sleeve head, but when/if you take off the sleeve to add netting, double check the rotation on the sleeve as you reattach it.
_________________
Heather McNaughton

Costume Designer
www.trulyvictorian.com
www.demifashions.com

Dale · Posted: Thu Nov 05, 2009 11:01 am Post subject:

Costumer, I'm afraid I don't understand what I'm looking at. I'm not a seamstress and have had to learn most of what I know the hard way - by making mistakes. It looks like you've used the pattern to cut a piece of netting, but then in the second picture it looks smaller and cut in pieces. Am I seeing that right?

Heather, I'll check the placement of the sleeves, I thought I had them right, but I sure could have misplaced them. On The Costumer's suggestion, they are all for short sleeves, so if I understand what you're explaining, I'd do something similar, but would it be full length? If I did pleates at the shoulder rather than gather, would that make a difference? Thanks so much for the help!!!

Heather · Posted: Thu Nov 05, 2009 11:12 am Post subject:

I think The Costumers pics are actually how to change a pattern to make the different sleeves, and do not really address the placemet of the netting.

You just want to put the netting into the top part, not the whole sleeve. Maybe cut a stip of netting (or two layers) 6" wide and the length needed to get around the top curve of the sleeve. Sew the netting to the back side of the fashion fabric, following the top curve (the loose bottom edge will fold up a bit to make the curve, that's fine)

Or, you can cut the netting the same shape as the pattern, only ending the netting about the level of the top of the seams, so it only covers the top curved section.

Does his help?
_________________
Heather McNaughton

Costume Designer
www.trulyvictorian.com
www.demifashions.com

the_costumer · Posted: Thu Nov 05, 2009 1:08 pm Post subject:

Sorry to confuse you! Where's what I mean again.
You have a two piece sleeve. There's an upper and a lower. The lower you won't need to change, the upper you will.

The upper is the part with the red on it. You can cut a piece of netting like that and sew it to the lovely grey fashion fabric that you have around the side and along the top, just don't stitch the bottom ad you will see it on the goodside of the finished sleeve! I don't know what the seam allowances are on this pattern, if they're 5/8 or 1/2 or whatever, but sew just to the outside of the seam allowance so when the sleeve is done, you don't be able to see the stitching either.

sooo, take the upper sleeve cut a piece (or two!) of netting the same same as the pattern and ending about where the red ends on my poor drawing. pin it to the back of the sleeve fashion fabric and sew around the curved part and then 1-2 inchesdown each side. And you should sew it by following the edge of the pressure foot. Then treat that as one piece and put the whole thing back together and bam, no saggy shoulders!

Dale · Posted: Fri Nov 06, 2009 1:02 pm Post subject: I get it!!

Heather and The Costumer, thank you sooooooo much! I am a bit more visual but was really confused. I get it now. And I did such a good job at hand stitching the lining at the shoulder seams.....big sigh! And, I even have a piece of netting that I think will just do the job. Thanks again to both of you!